SWITZERLAND - Christmas in Lugano

Lets start off by being honest - there is something inherently strange about Switzerland. You notice it as soon as you get off the train - the air is fresher, the streets cleaner, the grass less muddy and of course the train will always be on time. I'm sure if a Swiss train was half an hour late it would make the national news. The other thing you notice quite quickly is just how eye-wateringly expensive everything is. The Swiss Franc is a very strong currency and the standard of living high - in some instances the prices are around double what you would pay in Italy.

Lugano is just over an hour north of Milan by train and makes an easy and enjoyable day trip without the added expense of accommodation. It has a wonderful location on the side of Lake Lugano surrounded by mountains.

The railway station is very central but sits on a level above the city centre and can be reached by a steep walk or a modern funicular - Its best therefore to walk down and ride up! As you walk down you will pass the cathedral which although small is worth a look inside.

The church tower on the right is the cathedral

The old town is a maze of narrow pedestrian streets set just back from the lake front, bustling with a wide range of shops and at this time of the year Christmas market stalls. This thing with all the shops closing seems to be very British as you don't seem to encounter it elsewhere often.

If you walk along the lake shore going round to the east you will eventually come to another funicular which will take you up to Monte Bre. In fact it is a two stage funicular and climbs up to 915 metres. There was snow at the top and some spectacular views across the lake to the hills beyond.

As we already know the path to spiritual enlightenment always involves loads of steps - but this time the chapel at the top was open!!!

Back down in the city as darkness fell the Christmas lights came on and it was really busy with people at the Christmas market and sitting outside - the Swiss are a hardy lot - at the many bars and restaurants. The local council or chamber of commerce clearly has more money than in the UK because street entertainment was provided in the form of people on stilts performing with fire.

Two things to finish with. For today's Christmas tree Lugano's is pretty impressive.

And lastly as well as being punctual - Swiss trains look happy!!

ITALY - Highlight on the First Day

Well folks, you find me on my travels once again and this time I have ended up in Milan arriving here despite the best efforts of the RMT by train from London via Paris. The short winter days really are a double edged sword - its dark early enough that you can wander round and admire the Christmas lights and floodlit buildings with ease, but of course it was already dark when the train crossed the Alps so I missed all the fantastic scenary.

Now you know me - a new city and the first thing I am going to mention is the transport. Here in Milan they have the oldest trams currently in regular use in Europe - some say the world.  Those of you who have been to Lisbon, famous for its old trams, will now be screaming "No!" at the screen but the ones in Milan dating from 1928 are in fact slightly older.

They are pretty basic inside too!

The main thing to see in the city is of course the cathedral or Duomo which dates from the late 14th century and the visit can be made extra special by buying a ticket to go up on the roof. It is very ornately carved and this can be appreciated by getting up close to the buttresses and statues.

Next to the cathedral is the Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II nicknamed "Milan's Drawing Room" an elegant and upmarket shopping arcade - a meeting place for the Milanese

Now you are going to have to forgive me for rather glossing over these two important sights because I was really just passing the time! This trip is peaking early because I had secured a ticket for 5pm to go and see Leonardo da Vinci's "The Last Supper". Visits are very strictly controlled and tickets hard to come by because the art work is so fragile that only a limited number of people are allowed to view it each day.

The painting was comissioned by Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan and adorns a wall in what was the refectory of the convent of Santa Maria della Grazie. 

Fresco painting is a process of painting on fresh wet plaster and therefore must by definition be done quickly before the plaster dries. Leonardo da Vinci was not exactly known for his speed, preferring to paint and repaint his works changing detail over and over to meet his exacting requirements and therefore instead of painting a fresco he painted on dry plaster. The result is an amazing art work that started to deteriorate almost as soon as it was finished. 

Your ticket entitles you to 15 minutes standing in front of it - and no more. You have to go through a series of airlocks to enter and exit the building so that humidity can be controlled and ever careful of the climate change brigade throwing things at paintings around the world, no liquids are allowed and all bags are searched. I booked a visit with an English speaking guide so I got some extra information before and after the visit but you are still only allowed 15 minutes in the actual room.

The painting represents the Last Supper as told in John's gospel and depicts the moment immediately after Christ tells the Apostles that one of them will betray him.

Famous paintings do sometimes disappoint particularly if they are actually smaller than what we think they should be - this work however, fulfills every expectation and more. It is a hassle getting a ticket but well worth it.

There will be more from Milan later in the trip but it's Christmas time and so the final two pictures of the day depict two of the city's Christmas trees.

FRANCE - Bordeaux

As promised here is a post about the city of Bordeaux, beautifully situated on the River Garonne.  Its a city that of course made its money on wine and has a wealth of stunning buildings from the Grand Theatre through to those in lining the Place de la Bourse.  The easiest way of getting round is by tram and a one day ticket is 5 euro. The trams are very frequent and because they are right there rather than buried underground you tend to jump on and off more. Just remember to always touch in on each tram you use (the tickets are also valid on the buses and river bus). Oh and of course I have several times waited on the wrong side of the road for a tram!!

Grand Theatre

Place de la Bourse

In front of the Place de la Bourse is the Miroir d'Eau. The idea of this is that small fountains cover the area with water and then stop, as the water settles and slowly drains away it should reveal a perfect reflection of the buildings. However, in practice in today's world, most tourists simply want a picture for Instagram of them splashing in the water which rather spoils the effect.

Downstream in an area that is being regenerated is the Cite du Vin. Not so much a museum but a series of interactive audio visual presentations about wine. I'm going to be honest in that I don't interact very well with interactive exhibits so although I went it wasn't really my thing - having said that the view from the top is amazing and the ticket includes a glass of wine. The building itself is supposed to reflect the swirling of the wine in a glass.

One thing i did notice from the top that I went to look at on the ground was this building.

Apparently it is a submarine depot that the Germans built during WW2. You can see that you could simply "drive" your submarine straight in for maintenance. In true German building style of the period the place is virtually indestructable and consequently is still sitting there all these years later.

Here are a few other pictures of my time in Bordeaux

Monument aux Girondins

Rue Notre Dame

Bordeaux Cathedral

Bordeaux Cathedral

Port Caihou

There used to be an "umbrella street" in London - don't know if it is still there.

Napolean's Pont de Pierre

Well that brings this tip to an end. Tomorrow it's a morning train back to Paris for a Eurostar to London and home. I hope you have enjoyed following this trip, my next adventure is Milan and Turin in Decemmber - see you then.

FRANCE - A little drop of Claret

There is no doubt about it St Emilion is a bit touristy, but unlike a lot of places it doesn't really need its tourist industry because it is surrounded by some of the most valuable wine producing land in the world. When you get off the train at St Emilion's little unstaffed station there are vineyards as far as the eye can see and of course at the moment it is harvest time.

The station is a little way out of the village but it's a pleasant walk along a road lined with vines and up the hill. There you will be confronted with a picturesque place with all the buildings built from the honey coloured limestone that is the local rock round here. In fact, take away the wine and St Emilion would fit very nicely in the Cotswolds.

I have been here before and I have done the tour to a winery, so today I passed on that and just wandered around soaking up the sun and the atmosphere.

Today they were also celebrating the Jurade - the usual thing of people in funny clothes! - which seems to date back to the days of (English) King John. If you know your English history you will know that King John was one of the sons of Henry II and Eleanor of Aquitaine (this part of France). Therefore when he came to the throne this area of France was part of his realm and he created the brotherhood giving them power over wine production and trade. Today was the day when Jurade were going to issue "The Harvest Proclamation". It involved a parade through the town, what appeared to be a fancy lunch and then another parade. I'm not too sure how the bagpipes fit in but they were there!!

The main non wine related sight here is "l'eglise monolithe" a huge underground church that was carved out of the limestone rock. The town was founded by a Benedictine hermit monk called Emilion and eventually became a stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago. The tour shows you not only the underground church but also the cave where Emilion supposedly lived, a chapel and some catacombs.

That's it for today - time now for a glass of Claret!