ITALY - Highlight on the First Day

Well folks, you find me on my travels once again and this time I have ended up in Milan arriving here despite the best efforts of the RMT by train from London via Paris. The short winter days really are a double edged sword - its dark early enough that you can wander round and admire the Christmas lights and floodlit buildings with ease, but of course it was already dark when the train crossed the Alps so I missed all the fantastic scenary.

Now you know me - a new city and the first thing I am going to mention is the transport. Here in Milan they have the oldest trams currently in regular use in Europe - some say the world.  Those of you who have been to Lisbon, famous for its old trams, will now be screaming "No!" at the screen but the ones in Milan dating from 1928 are in fact slightly older.

They are pretty basic inside too!

The main thing to see in the city is of course the cathedral or Duomo which dates from the late 14th century and the visit can be made extra special by buying a ticket to go up on the roof. It is very ornately carved and this can be appreciated by getting up close to the buttresses and statues.

Next to the cathedral is the Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II nicknamed "Milan's Drawing Room" an elegant and upmarket shopping arcade - a meeting place for the Milanese

Now you are going to have to forgive me for rather glossing over these two important sights because I was really just passing the time! This trip is peaking early because I had secured a ticket for 5pm to go and see Leonardo da Vinci's "The Last Supper". Visits are very strictly controlled and tickets hard to come by because the art work is so fragile that only a limited number of people are allowed to view it each day.

The painting was comissioned by Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan and adorns a wall in what was the refectory of the convent of Santa Maria della Grazie. 

Fresco painting is a process of painting on fresh wet plaster and therefore must by definition be done quickly before the plaster dries. Leonardo da Vinci was not exactly known for his speed, preferring to paint and repaint his works changing detail over and over to meet his exacting requirements and therefore instead of painting a fresco he painted on dry plaster. The result is an amazing art work that started to deteriorate almost as soon as it was finished. 

Your ticket entitles you to 15 minutes standing in front of it - and no more. You have to go through a series of airlocks to enter and exit the building so that humidity can be controlled and ever careful of the climate change brigade throwing things at paintings around the world, no liquids are allowed and all bags are searched. I booked a visit with an English speaking guide so I got some extra information before and after the visit but you are still only allowed 15 minutes in the actual room.

The painting represents the Last Supper as told in John's gospel and depicts the moment immediately after Christ tells the Apostles that one of them will betray him.

Famous paintings do sometimes disappoint particularly if they are actually smaller than what we think they should be - this work however, fulfills every expectation and more. It is a hassle getting a ticket but well worth it.

There will be more from Milan later in the trip but it's Christmas time and so the final two pictures of the day depict two of the city's Christmas trees.